A Walk In The Park – NOT!!!!

Entry 39: Lake Erie 1st Leg – Ontario Coastline East to Welland Canal

Sorry for this belated update but…

Where do I begin…. I am writing from Leamington Marina this morning in a warm lounge and a good hot cup of coffee. Very nice marina. Its my second stay at this marina in 4 days – I think.

Its Monday so I’m told and I am supposed to be entering Port Colborne for tomorrows’ planned passage through the Welland Locks. I’m not going to make it tomorrow or the next day or…. hopefully sometime Friday I will be entering the marina in Port Colborne. It all depends on – not me, not the boat and not the temperatures but the dam wind direction and strength. Its forecast to shift in a couple days. And after 4 1/2 days of 20-37+ knot head winds and up to 9 foot seas in 40 degree temperatures I have reluctantly deferred from another effort in futility. Besides I need at least a day to work on the boat, cabin and vegetate. A nice way of saying uncle at least until the winds shift. I hope to head out tomorrow at the earliest but it likely won’t be until Wednesday when the southwesterly winds are predicted to arrive. But the truth of the matter is I’m not heading out until ALL is right – the wind direction, the boat and me.

So now a brief chronology of the journey since I embarked last Wednesday _

Wednesday: Began with beautiful orange red skies in the morning on the way to the boat. A predictor of things to come. I arrived at the boat, loaded and found the formerly fully charged batteries completely dead when I tried to start Never Too Lates’ Yanmar diesel! Before leaving the dock, I ran the motor an hour and found the batteries fully charged. I said goodbye to Mark Herman who made the trip out to see me off. Greatly appreciated.

The winds were on my back at about 12 mph and except for the infamous Lake St. Clair chop the first part of the trip was peaceful and uneventful. Even with a two hour delay I was confident I’d make anchor at Pelee Island in the evening. With the help of the river current and east winds growing to 15 mph I was moving at 5+ mph. After going under the Ambassador Bridge, in addition to increasing, winds began to gust and by the time I was passing Wyandotte, even though the river waters where flat, spray would occasionally hit my face. As the gusts increased in strength and frequency, I decided to rolled my jib a 25% to ease the boat from lurching. I was making good time as I passed Amherstburg, Ontario around noon with winds around 25 knots and continuing to build. When I entered Lake Erie unlike the flat Detroit River waters, I was faced with 6-8 foot swells on top of winds hitting 30 knots! I ended up 2nd reefing my main and and rolled my jib 75%. My boat was taking a beating. I had turned up my 8 hp single piston diesel to 3,000 rpms but was not able to power through the swells. After 45 minutes, I abandoned reaching Pelee Island and decided to go for Colchester. The cockpit remained dry but the inside of my cabin was trashed as Never Too Late was airborne a few times. After 3 hours I made a whole 2 miles! The east winds where now at least 33 knots and swells grew to 8 feet. I decided to turn around (the first of several such decisions) and head back to Amherstburg. I called Canadian Boarder & Custom got my registration number and anchored around 5:30 pm. Tomorrows forecast was not promising calling for equal conditions. I spent the evening cleaning out my cabin and draining out 5 gallons of drinking water that had spilled out from a broken container. I fell asleep planning out my strategy for tomorrow.

Thursday ready to go I started out around 6 am. I wanted to beat the forecast for winds out the east building in the afternoon to 37 knots with 8+ foot swells. I was going for Leamington today. No way I would attempt Pelee Island with the projected strength of these head winds and waves. Going east into the weather Never Too Late and its skipper just didn’t have the power or ability to drive through those conditions. I decided to follow the coastline as close to shore as possible hoping that the swells and winds would be moderated from treeline buffering. Perhaps I would benefit from a shoreline lift as well. Finally, after a dozen tacks inching forward, I finally got a lift allowing me to follow the shoreline for about 4 miles before making another tack out. But it was around noon already and given the conditions, Leamington was very unlikely. The winds and seas where at the forcasted levels and conditions were worsening with rain and temperatures in the 40’s. Colchester was now the ONLY option. She was taking another pounding with her propeller free spinning while we were airborne! I tried to take down my main but she jammed halfway down – everything was flying as I reefed my jib 75%. Following the coastline was a good decision. Leaving port in these conditions was not. Conditions worsened when fog set in and I could barely see the shoreline. I called in to Colchester and literally surfed into port with two awaiting attendants dressed in full storm gear and lifejackets! Wow, I made a whole 15 miles today. And I’m doing this by choice! I spent the evening cleaning and re-organizing my cabin again – I thought I had worked it out last evening. After a nice hot shower, I spend the night with no heat as both electrical outlets didn’t function.
The good, I’m learning Never Too Lates capabilities. She’s very solid and seaworthy. My cockpit remained dry throughout. The bad, I wasn’t able to maintain my logbook as I needed to remain focused. And, I’m now in jeopardy of making Port Colborne to schedule unless the wind and seas become more favorable – it was not to be.

Friday, well I was thinking of sailing all day and through the night in the hopes of making Port Stanley. That would leave me with a long but doable sail to Port Colborne Friday. Was not to be, weather forecast – MORE OF THE SAME but colder! I really didn’t want to go out a third day in a row. I went and had a good breakfast with a few hot coffees contemplating. OK, let’s give it a go. If conditions ease, I’m ready to go, if however the forecast holds true, I’ll make Leamington. OK George, but at least I’m making progress.

Well unfortunately Thursdays’ forecast held true. Conditions were slightly more moderate when compared to the previous day and a half with 30+ knot winds coming from the east and 4-6′ seas. But the air was cool. I’ve been running my diesel under sail to power through the surf the past few days and I needed to check on my fuel – I have no gauge. Colchester had no diesel and Leamington had diesel.

I made Leamington in the early afternoon, fueled up (6 gallons, she holds 11 gallons), docked and hired an electrician. Apparently, the pounding caused the circuitry to break in both of my cabin electrical outlets! And ($$$$) I just passed my budget for the month. At least I now have heat capability.

The Leamington Marina is truly a gem. Beautiful, clean, full service and the staff are very hospitable. OK, time to re-assess my schedule. Never mind, I make it when I make it. Lesson learned.

SATURDAY MORE OF THE SAME!!! Let me share with you something. I had originally hoped for a leisurely sail to the Welland Canal with time to get some things done including learning the sailing heartbeat of Never Too Late (NTL). Wrong. Instead both NTL and I have been tested to survival. To date it has not been a stroll in the park as I originally had hoped it would be. I need weather that will allow me to try things out before Lake Superior. But its not to be I guess. I have been tracking Lake Erie wind patterns and temperatures for weeks and anticipated temps in the 60’s and winds out of the southeast! Oh well, I probably should have pushed back my launch date a couple of weeks.

One good thing with the winds coming from the east is that sailing out of the harbor to the tip of Point Pelee would be smooth until I round it. I left in the early morning prepared for a long day for Port Stanley. The morning weather was the best its been for three days and I was making progress beating with winds starting at 20 knots and 3-5 foot waves. The afternoon however, winds and waves continued to build. Even with improved conditions, I found my auto-pilot was useless and I had to tend to the tiller the entire time. As winds and waves continued to build (again), I began struggling to make progress with no options but to make and round Rondeau Point for Eireau. At 10:30 pm, tired and with no safe harbor or inlet, I anchored along the shoreline short of Rondeau Point. I secured anchoring exposed. I tried to get some sleep as she rocked.

Sunday are you kidding me, forecast calls for 37+ knots with up to 9′ swells building into the afternoon! I got up at 3:30 am and set off in an attempt to beat the weather. At 4:30 am, I made 1 mile and reached Rondeau Point. The northeast winds were probably at 30+ knots already. I had the helm hard to starboard in an attempt to round into the wind. After numerous attempts and different strategies she would not go into the wind and tack to starboard. OK two choices. Go across Lake Erie (45-50 miles) in increasing winds and 9′ waves or make a run back for Leamington. Even though it took me 2 days to get to here from Leamington, I was beating the entire way. If I headed for Leamington, I would be going downwind with waves on my back. It was 6:30 am when I decided for the latter.

I was flying consistently at 6 1/2 and hitting 11+ mph at times. (Everything is relative) I’m under control and the cockpit remained dry as I was looking up behind me at the cresting waves. This is more like it. Though I regretted having to backtrack, for the first time since embarking I was feeling relaxed. No beating and fighting with the tiller going 1 or 2 mph. I was reminded of the fun playing the waves when I was cat racing. NTL doesn’t have the quickness in response or the speed of a cat but she’s solid even though she’s a bit rocky in these 9+ foot crests, I felt very comfortable and confident. It was the right decision.

I was about 5 miles west of Point Pelee when from behind on my port side one of the swells kept rising, crested 3 or 4 feet above my bimini and crashed broaching NTL. In an blink of an eye I was thrown underwater (45 degrees). Instinctively I spread eagled and stiffened, my eyes wide open. I hit and grabbed both rails with either arm before my tether had engaged. NTL immediately righted and I quickly grabbed my damaged bucket and bailed the foot of water from my cockpit. Engine still running, revved her to 3000 rpms. Fortunately I was sailing with my jib furled 75% and my main down. Sails were good. Also, thank goodness my lower hatchback board was in place and except for another broken 5 gallon water container, there was no evidence of Lake water having entered the cabin. (I’m thankful I had glued a rubber seal around the sides and bottom of both the hatch entrance and boards).

I’m freezing now freezing but still going at at 5+ knots. The sun is periodically showing, thank you. The seas were alive and I needed to remain focused and on the tiller. I now NTL limitations and it won’t happen again. Though I will not be able to put on dry clothing. Stupid, I didn’t have my dry suit on. Wet, teeth chattering in the 40 degree weather and the seas at their peak (winds 35+ knots and 9′ seas) I had another 5 hours to go before I reached port. OK need to take a second quick assessment. I can only take my eyes off the seas a moment at a time. Sails? good. GPS OK. Handheld secure, bimini damaged but repairable. Need to take inventory when I reach port. I’ve lost a few items overboard – nothing significant, I hope. The cabin interior had minimum water (appears water jar only) but it looks as though a tornado had gone through. With the exception of the bimini, damage appears minimum. On reflection, NTL broach must have passed 90 degrees as I was underwater while still in the cockpit spread eagled against the hand rail looking up at the light. Boy I was stupid not having my dry suit on, I am freezing.

Once I round the Point, I’m going to follow the western shoreline as close as I can to ensure calm seas and protect from the northeast winds. I ate a protein bar (energy) and a can of coke (sugar). 4 hours left. 3 hours rounding the point. Cold, I can see my breath. I honestly can’t feel my fingers or bottom of my feet. OK I need to move.I engaged my tiller clutch. Navigated into cabin and found my insulated jacket. Tool off my wet tops, through the wet tops into the cabin and put on my jacket. 2 hours left, I can do this. Uncontrollable shaking seems to come every 15-20 minutes. Stomping my feet, remaining focused. 1 hour left.

Hailing Leamington Marina this is Never Too Late, broached with damage, need docking assistance. This is Leamington Marina, we will be waiting at Slip G1. That’s the same slip I left two days ago:)

I honestly could not feel the ground with the bottom of my feet as I was raced to the shower. Best ever long, long, long hot shower. I raised the bottom of each foot so the hot water until I could feel the water hit my skin.

Began shorting through the damage – wow, wow. I could never imagined. Tired, hungry I just needed to clear up enough in the cabin to have room to sleep the night. Just that was a challenge.

I got the weather forecast for the week from the marina. Unbelievable. Oh well, it will take me a couple days to clean-up and make repairs anyway.

I called to update and re-schedule my Welland crew for a Saturday passage. May be a bit optimistic, but what the hell. I then went and had a delicious rib steak, two Old Fashions and went back to the boat to sleep. I woke up in the middle of the night upset and grateful I didn’t bring Isabella (my dog) with me.

On reflection OK, so I only broached once. Though this was not the way I wanted to get to know Never Too Late and her capabilities. Lessons are being learned and we are both undeterred.

Monday a day of recovery and blog update.