Entry # 97:  N45.55.919, W83.00.011

Tuesday, August 6th, (Day 92) – Boy, I am still struggling with motivation this morning.  The favourable forecast called for blue skies with perfect northwest winds 5 to 10 knots and 1-2′ seas and I am still not looking forward to sailing.  No excuses.  I finally left my slip around 8:30 am, fueled and embarked under sail heading northeast towards Manitoulin Island, Canada.  The North Channel is truly picturesque with dozens of islands dotting the northern shores of Drummond Island.  I found myself motor sailing to facilitate avoiding shoals and islands.  In the late morning I waved to a passing couple and their dog in their Cape Dory sailboat.  They were also headed east and soon disappeared on the horizon ahead of me.  I had enjoyed the relaxed sailing conditions that morning and was making good time.

The skies became overcast and the winds slowly began to climb into the upper teens (knots) with the seas choppy.  I needed to take things more seriously as high winds were forecast beginning around 5 pm with thunderstorms from the northwest through the night.  I had planned on anchoring that night and had targeted Vidal Bay on the north end of Manitoulin Island some forty-four miles from where I had set out earlier in the morning.  Vidal Bay appeared to offer decent protection and good anchoring.

I rounded the peninsula and entered Vidal Bay around 5:30 pm with winds and seas continuing to build.  I picked out what I determined would be an ideal spot to anchor along the west shoreline.  Unfortunately I ended up disturbing a beautiful Golden Eagle as I put in anchor about 50 feet from the edge of the heavily wooded shoreline.   The eagle had been sitting less than a 100′ feet from where I had anchored and flew off before I could take its picture!  I felt sorry for having disturbed it.

Since Manitoulin Island is a Canadian territory, I dutifully reported to the Canadian authorities.  Reception was weak and it took three calls before I was successful in getting my authorization number.  I had dinner (which comprised of canned salmon, crackers and sparkling water) on deck and watched two additional sailboats arrive and anchor.  We were the only evidence of humans in the otherwise pristine bay.  I finished off a Symphony chocolate bar for desert.

I fell asleep early while reading only to be suddenly awaken from a dream where I had lost my bowsprit and both anchors and ended up drifting into a subdivision full of houses.  I jumped out of the cabin only to find my anchors secure and the treeline protecting NTL in calm waters.  I went below and went back to sleep.

• All (5) Great Lakes sailed; (3) lakes circumnavigated; second of three bays in-progress;
• 2,688 nautical miles travelled;
• 92nd Day.

Entry # 96:  N46.01.496, W83.44.906

Monday, August 5th (Days 91) – I was awakened early in the morning by my bilge pump running non-stop!  Two hours later I had drained over a gallon of water, dried and cleaned out my bilge area.  During my journey I had observed that whenever in following seas with winds above 15 knots as I had experienced yesterday, my bilge area takes in water.  I’ve determined that its causation is twofold.  Poor design of my bilge tube routing and inconsistent operation of my bilge pump.  More an annoyance than anything else.  But so much for R&R.

Now fully awake, I decided to take a walk and stretch my back and leg muscles.  I walked a few miles and had a cup of coffee and a chocolate custard while getting an update on the Trans-Superior race.  Dam I should be there.  Oh well.  On my way back to NTL I saw a Dad with a Michigan t-shirt playing with his son on a swing set.  He reciprocated to my ‘Go Blue’ hail and I continued my gingerly walk.  I took in the beautiful and relaxed environment and watched a couple of butterflies dancing around.  I finally reached NTL and spent the day reading and napping.   With little motivation to move on, I paid for another night in my slip.

That evening I opened a can of what I thought was chili only to find it to be sauce only!  Hot barbecue sauce in fact !  Uche.  I decided to open a can of chicken, mixed the sauce with the chicken and ate my dinner.  After washing dishes, I determined tomorrows destination and with little sense of urgency or stress, plotted my course.   I took some Aleve for my back and then laid down to begin reading before falling asleep.

 

Entry # 95:  N46.01.496, W83.44.906

Recapping yesterdays’ evening _ After returning to George Kemp Marina, Saulte Saint Marie yesterday all I wanted to do was to be alone and to vegetate.  For days I would feel devastated with little motivation, listless, lost.   Without the distraction of purpose, the reality of my condition began to surface.  I finally became cognisent of my true condition.  It crossed my mind how pathetic I may have appeared.  Nevertheless and as I had noted in my yesterdays’ entry, I had decided to follow Dans’ advice on having dinner.  My walk was slow and painful to the restaurant.  I was in my own world alone and felt separate from the world and my surroundings.   Though I very much wanted to, I knew I could not just sit here for the rest of my life!  I finally eased into thinking about options _

Option 1:  Complete my circumnavigation of Lake Superior.  

Option 2:  By-pass the North Channel & Georgian Bay and then head straight for home along Lake Hurons’ Canadian coastline thereby completing circumnavigating the fourth Great Lake.  

Option 3:  Sail the North Channel & Georgian Bay prior to completing circumnavigating the main body of Port Huron on the Ontario coastline.  

After dinner and three beers, I decided to sleep on it and make a decision on which option in the morning.

Sunday, August 6th (Day 90) – I woke up appreciating my first full nights’ sleep in several days.  I had made a decision and decided to get underway even though I would have preferred to stay.

I reluctantly decided not to pursue Option 1 and attempt to circumnavigate Lake Superior.  I had spent much of my evening assessing its feasibility without success.  But, I was only able to let it go and move on to my other options after convincing myself that I would plan out a second attempt in 2021!  I would need to be satisfied (for now) to have singlehandedly sail in all five Great Lakes in one season including circumnavigating four out of five in my 20′ sailboat.

Option 2 to head straight for home was very tempting.  But I determined that I had invested too much to exclude sailing in the North Channel and Georgian Bay.  Tomorrow is promised no one!

Option 3 to sail in the North Channel and Georgian Bay prior to completing circumnavigating the main body of Lake Huron.  With having sailed in Green Bay earlier, I will be included sailing in all three major bays of the Great Lakes as well.  I estimated this option would take three (3) weeks to complete.  I would be home by the end of the third week in August – well within my time constraints!

Even though I had made my decision, motivating myself to get underway continued to be difficult.  I decided to take a good shower before finally getting underway at 7:30 am.  It was another beautiful day and I needed to take advantage of the good weather.  I longingly looked back as I headed east towards the St. Marys’ River.  I was taking in the peaceful morning heading south but soon began wondering how the participants were doing.  Aided by the strong current I was averaging between 4 and 5 mph.  (I had been averaging only 3.1 mph during the entire journey).

I entered the North Channel and made Drummond Isle Yacht Haven around 6:30 that evening.  It made a peanut butter and jelly sandwich before retiring.

Entry #94:  N46.51.167, W84.61.147

Saturday, August 3rd (Day 89) – Instead of a good nights rest, I experienced a second straight night of restlessness.  I simply was unable to stop reflecting on my poor physical and mental conditions and thinking about NTLs’ lack of preparedness or that I have run out of time necessary to complete circumnavigating all five Great Lakes.   I was about to enter Lake Superior without solutions to all these issues.  The number and severity of storms while circumnavigating each of the lower three Great Lakes and one leg of Lake Huron had resulted in being two to three weeks behind schedule.

Originally, I had hoped to have sailed the North Channel and Georgian Bay prior to taking on Lake Superior in order to avoid sailing waters north of Tobermory in September.  I had estimated it would take three to four weeks to complete circumnavigation of Lake Superior (Sept. 1st).  It still would have been tight, but immediately following my Lake Superior circumnavigation, I then planned to shoot down the Saint Marys’ River and follow the Ontario shoreline of Lake Huron south to the Blue Water Bridge.  But I arrived in De Tour at the mouth of the Saint Marys’ River with no time to make the North Channel or Georgian Bay.  And more importantly with no time to rest.

And now having to complete the North Channel and Georgian Bay after Lake Superior, I would now be well into September!  Too dangerous and not acceptable, especially in my physical condition.   Truthfully I had under estimated the distances of all three northern bodies of water (Superior, North Channel and Georgian Bay) and should have added a fourth week to my estimate.   

(I know that I may be repeating myself but I am attempting to frame and put into context ensure the state of my mind as event are about to take place.  This is difficult for me.)

Last evening during the skippers meeting I met with the two other Trans-Superior newbies as we agreed to embark together in the morning for the Canadian locks on our way to the starting line.  I had little time left prior to our agreed to 7:30 am departure.  I lowered my left leg and literally groaned in pain to lift myself up.

I was the last to leave my slip.  It was a beautiful morning.  The Canadian locks where scheduled to open at 8 am.  I wasn’t the first to the lock but somehow I managed to be in first position of perhaps a dozen or so vessels secured to leave when the gates opened.  Slowly we all rose as water filled to the level of Lake Superior.  The Superior side lock doors finally opened and again I was the first vessel out and began heading for Gros Cap Light in Whitefish Bay, Lake Superior some twelve miles away.   I remember smiling as I thought to myself, OK, I now have sailed my fifth Great Lake and I’m in first place.  I won.  I’m done.   Now I can return to George Kemp Marina and get some sleep!  Little did I know – deja vu!

As boat after boat passed me on my way to the starting line I was feeling a sense of contentment.  I was truly enjoying the beautiful sailing conditions on Lake Superior.  I even felt a sense of accomplishment _ 89 days, over 2.500 miles, sailed all five Great Lakes, three circumnavigated.  And throughout my journey, peoples’ responses had evolved when hearing of my attempt from polite acknowledgement and skepticism (Erie, Ontario) to a shaking of the head and awe (Michigan, Superior, North Channel and Georgian Bay).

Eventually as I continued on my way to the starting line, all the race participants had passed me and were disappearing into a newly formed foggy mist.  My feeling of contentment had shifted to one of urgency as the start line was still 3 ½ miles ahead somewhere in the fog!  It was an hour to the starting line and I realized that I may not be on time!  I sailed for speed and strained to maintain sight of the nearest vessel until it too had disappeared.  I was now left to my GPS chart plotter and aggressively headed for Gros Cap Light.

It took me over three hours to reach the starting line.  I was the last boat to report in with only a little over twenty minutes to the 1 pm start.  Immediately, I began to scope the line.  I then ran the line to see how long it would take from committee boat to the Gros Cap Light.  I dipped above and below the starting line with ease.  I was having a blast as several participants sailed by wishing me luck.  I decided on my start strategy and got into position above and to starboard of the committee boat.  I then began my run as the one minute countdown commenced.  On starboard tack I sailed by the committee boat dipping below the starting  line and began running the line.  I was near the port end (Gros Cap Light) at the gun and began to sheet in the main when I inexplicably stalled!  Then my mind turned to mush and I couldn’t get myself to cross the starting line!  It was as if there was a wall blocking me!

As I watched the last boat cross the starting line I began to feel sick with despair.  Conditions were ideal what the hell is going on?  I found myself making one mental error after another.  Eventually after several futile attempts on either tack, I knew I had reached my physical, mental and emotional end.  In my condition it was too dangerous to go on and something inside of me was preventing me from going forward.  With great difficulty, I solemnly sailed to the committee boat and announced my withdrawal from the race.  I then came about and began sailing back towards the Canadian locks.  I was done .  I can’t ever, ever remember experiencing the emotional breakdown that followed.  I don’t remember how I contacted Mike Spence (Race Chairman) to tell him that I had withdrawn but I remember him saying that he had already been informed.

It was a very long sail back to Jack Kemp Marina.  With emphasis, I was feeling the lowest I have ever felt.  After nearly 90 days I had fallen short of reaching all my objectives.  How could this be?  I thought, turn around.   Turn around John, you can do it!  You’ve gone this far.  You have to finish it, dam it.   How embarrassing.   But my tank was empty.  I had nothing left in me.  I was tired.  I hurt physically.  And my mind was not on top of it.  All I wanted to do was to just sit here in the middle of Whitefish Bay!

It was a series of little things that began to dig my mental and emotional hole I was in.  I was listless without motivation and despondent.  The healing process took several weeks.  First was my call to Mike Pence following my withdrawal announcement.  It served to get out of my shell shock.  Then while returning the sate little tracker, responding in the affirmative to the Race Committees request I commit to enter 2021 Trans-Superior.

As I entered the channel leading to the Canadian locks, I got the courage to call my mentor Dan Pavlat.  I wanted him to hear it first from me that I had withdrawn.  I wanted to let him know that I would not have made it this far if it weren’t for his mentorship.   As was his manner, Dan’s response was very supportive.  He said that I’ve already accomplished more than anyone had anticipated when I had first set off – particularly given the weather conditions.   He then advised that I stay a few days at the marina in the Soo and get my mind off sailing – by relaxing, getting a good meal, visiting the marine museum and, only when ready to contemplate my next step.  As in the past, his re-assurance gave me strength.

I got back to George Kemp Marina around 5:30 pm.  I took a long shower then walked the mile or so to Antillers Restaurant for a good meal.  I ordered a hamburger and a side dish of poutine and drank three beers before waddling back to NTL and crashing.

Its been quite the day as I fell asleep contemplating my options.

 

Entry #93:  N46.29.970, W84.20.215

Thursday, August 1st & Friday, August 2nd (Days 87 & 88) – As previously stated, I had planned on having up to a week to relax and prepare NTL for the next leg of my journey.   I was relieved to have finally arrived in time for Friday mornings’ registration and the two scheduled skippers’ meeting – the first for the singlehanded entrants and the second for all entrants.   Unfortunately I only had a little over one day (Thursday) to prepare and  relax.

Though tired and aching when I got up on Thursday, I found myself running on adrenaline while preparing a ‘to do’ list which included _

One _  Completing an inventory on needed supplies.  I needed a months’ worth of supplies for the race as well as supplies for circumnavigating Lake Superior.  Locate and go to the nearest grocery store;

Two _  Clean-out and re-organize my cabin for potentially five to seven straight days of overnight sailing to Duluth anticipating periods of high seas and severe weather in mind;

Third _  Inspect in detail every nick and corner of NTL for needed maintenance and repair/replacement;

Fourth _ Perform due diligence by inspecting the competitor boats and seek opportunities to pick the brains of as many experienced GLSS entrants as I could find;

Fifth _  Select and stage my clothing for day/night, light air/heavy seas, hot/cold and wet weather sailing; and,

Sixth _  Research weather forecasts, routes and contingencies;

Seventh _ And of utmost importance, try to recover physically and mentally between today (Thursday) and Saturday’s start.   My approach was simple, get as musch rest as possible, hydrate and eat well.  Repeat and then repeat.

With my ‘to do’ list completed, I headed for the the marina office to do laundry and  inquire on the location of the closest grocery store.  Along the way, I was stopped and asked about my boat from a retired judge who was skippering a Cal 30 in the race.  The two of us hit it off and an hour later I finally resumed heading to the office with my laundry.  While doing my laundry, I found out the location of a grocery store.  I completed my wash borrowed a bike provided by the marina and headed to the grocery store.  I was able to get most of the supplies on my list.  I did want to purchase some coke but bringing it would have been a logistical issue.  I returned to NTL and organized a weeks worth of supplies by meals.   By the time I finished, it was three pm.  I made a sardine sandwich and took a nap.

I was awakened by a a hail from Dan Pavlats’ niece and nephew who were so kind to come by and wish me good luck.  Dan is a member of GLSS and has been a great mentor during my journey.  He had mentioned that he had a niece and nephew who lived in the area and guided kayak trips in Lake Superior.  He obviously called asking them to come by and say hello.   It was a pleasant surprise for them to take the time and come by.  After they left, I decided to tighten and re-tape my damaged bimini frame.  I then checked my bilge and pumped out about a gallon of water.  Throughout the trip, my bilge had not been working properly – either prematurely shutting off or suddenly engaging and requiring manual shut-off .   (I would check out the bilge every few days throughout the trip just as a precaution.)  It was now after 5 pm and I decided to walk to Antlers Restaurant for a hamburger and poutine.  Antlers was about a mile from the marina.  Throughout my trip, whenever I made dock I would look forward to walking.  I can now relate to sailors out at sea for long periods wanting to stretch their legs during shore leave.

It was nearly 7 pm when I got back to NTL from dinner.  Mike Spencer, the 2019 Trans-Superior Int’l. Yacht Race Chairman came by shortly afterwards to chat and update me regarding tomorrows schedule and lock passage plans.  Mike places safety as his first priority and per his offer, I contacted an individual who would be tracking each racer.  In the case I would be out of contact range and I was in distress, we agreed to a communication signal.  Though I felt very secure in NTLs’ seaworthiness and my ability to batten the hatches if need be, this added security blanket was appreciated and added to my confidence level.

Mike shared with me Saturdays’ strategy for lock passage which included having the smaller vessels go through the Canadian locks at 8 am.  The starting line would be set at Gross Cap Lighthouse in Lake Superior – about two to three hours following passage through these Canadian locks.  Tomorrows’ (Fridays’) registration would begin at 9 am tomorrow followed by the single handed skippers meeting at 2 pm and all skippers meeting and dinner at 5 pm!

Here it was Thursday evening and I still had at least three days worth of preparations.   I went down below and began going through my equipment and electronics not only as part of my ‘to do’ list but also to keep my mind and anxiety from thinking about not being ready.  It was after 10 pm before I finally retired.  As I was falling asleep, I couldn’t help but worry about the dozens of things I had yet to address – let alone my rundown physical condition.  Tomorrow I no longer would be afforded to schedule my own activity, as I would be in ‘pre-launch sequence mode’.

Friday – Registration and Skippers’ Meetings –  I got up early Friday morning after a restless slept.  I picked up trash I had accumulated the past few days and went to dump the trash when I was met by John (a retired judge) and Ron (an experienced Trans-Superior and GLSS member).  They were on their way for breakfast and asked if I would join them.  I had planned to go through a detailed  inspection of the exterior of NTL but this was a great opportunity I couldn’t pass up!   I will do my inspection later – but when, who knows as we headed towards breakfast.

It didn’t take me long to find out that my initial plan to follow the Upper Peninsula coastline west was not in my best interest for a number of reasons.  First, it would greatly add to the distance needed to reach Duluth.  Secondly, I was strongly advised to avoid the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula due to the predominant currents and winds.   More than one vessel had ended up grounding in the shoals and rocks especially when high winds and storms prevailed.  This bit of information alone made my decision to join them for breakfast worth my inspection delay.  During our breakfast, I had gained more insight than I could ever have anticipated.

Though my apprehension had reduced and my confidence grown,  I thought if I only could find more time to give my body a chance to recover.  My facial skin remained sensitive to the touch but at least it didn’t bleed last night when I dried myself following a shower.  Though my hands remained raw and tight their condition was not a hindrance.  I’ve finally accepted my 24/7 pain in my lower back and discs.  And, both my strength and stamina remained drained and had not recovered these past few days to lesson my concern sailing in heavy seas and winds.  Additionally, I still haven’t found a solution to my lack of time needed to complete circumnavigation of Lake Superior!

When we returned from breakfast, I went directly to complete registration.  I now was an official entrant in the 2019 Biennial Trans-Superior International Yacht Race – yes!   I truly felt honored and a sense of satisfaction that I had successfully gone this far.  Happy over what I had picked up over breakfast, in the back of my mind, I continued to be uneasy not having all my t’s crossed and i’s dotted.  I went back to my cabin and ate a sardine sandwich and continued my hydration effort while reading the race rules.  I fell asleep and woke up just in time for the 2 pm single handed skippers meeting.

The setting for the single-handed skippers meeting was relaxed and casual but comprehensive.  Each entrant introduced himself and his vessel and the number of successfully completed single handed races .  There were a total of 14 single-handed entrants.   As it turned out, I was one of three first time Lake Superior entrants and the only single-handed entrant who had not completed a single-handed race.  Additionally, NTL was by far the shortest vessel at only 20 feet.  Out of all the race entrants, Bill Martins’ ‘Stars & Stripes’ at 68 feet was the longest.

 

 

Entry #92:  N46.29.970, W84.20.215

Wednesday, July 31st (Day 86):   I had left the slip and was in the St. Mary’s River before 7:30 am.  Sailing conditions were great _ upper 60’s to low 70’s, the winds were coming from the west north west at a moderate 5 to 9 knots and the seas were less than a foot high.  These conditions prevailed throughout my 46 mile trip to George Kemp Marina.  It was a miracle as I finally arrived around 7:30 pm.

Not that there weren’t some exciting moments mind you.  When I left this morning I headed straight north on the western shoreline.  I wanted to avoid the deep freighter channel were the current was strongest so I set sail between the shoreline and west of an island.  The freighter channel was between the east side of the island and the east shoreline of the St. Marys’ River.   I had seen a freighter heading south towards me but figured it would follow the channel.  Nope.  Instead the freighter blew his horn went out of the channel and straight towards me.  I quickly disengaged the auto-pilot and veered NTL briskly towards the shoreline.  I was going to worry about my depth after I cleared.   I quickly took a picture of passing culprit making its way on the west side of the island and west shoreline!  I may have aimed my thoughts at her.

I had to keep an eye on numerous freighters that day.  About where I had reached the furthest point north yesterday before turning around, the river depth that is navigable outside the channel is tight.  I saw another freighter coming from behind and a fisherman ahead.  I estimated I had about 200 feet or so of navigable room between where the freighter, the fisherman and NTL would be parallel.  I set my auto-pilot course about 150′ feet west of the anticipated position of the freighter and 25′ east of the fisherman.  I then proceeded to check the weather forecast on my I-phone.  Suddenly a loud voice yelled “Aren’t you even looking were your going?”  Startled,  I jumped up and looking over my shoulder I saw the fisherman standing on his boat with his arms in the air repeating his question.  I pointed to the freighter which by now was where I had estimated and yelled back “Did you need to move?”  Then I sat back down and continued checking my radar app.

When I arrived, the marina was full of Trans-Superior Yacht entrees and amongst them was my 20′ Pacific Seacraft Flicka.  After 86 days, four Great Lakes sailed (3 circumnavigated) and 2,556 nautical miles I was euphoric that had finally made it!

Entry #91:  N45.59.868, W83.53.974

Tuesday, July 30st (Day 85):  It was 7:00 am when I left my slip in De Tour heading north on the St. Maries’ River for George Kemp Marina in Sault Saint Marie.  The forecast called for north northwest winds over 20 knots with 2 to 4 foot seas.  In addition to the head winds, I would also be heading into the St. Mary River current.  It was going to be a long working day even under both power and sail.

Whenever possible, I utilized the lee side of an island to buffer the winds or snug the west shoreline to reduce the strength of the current and heights of the waves.  My  progress was slow and by noon I had made only a dozen miles while averaging 2 ½ mph.  In the afternoon the wind and seas continued to pick-up and my speed was down to under 2 mph.   I wasn’t going to reach George Kemp Marina and began looking for a place to anchor.  It was now approaching 3:00 pm and the closest available anchorage was at least 5 hours away.  With the winds continuing to climb, I wasn’t sure that I would make it before dark.

I had no safe option but to turn around.  I remembered passing Raber Bay about 2 miles southwest and headed for anchorage.  It didn’t take long at over 5 ½ knots with the wind, seas and current on my back.  Unfortunately, Raber Bay shoreline depth was too shallow to provide protection from the wind.  I finally gave up after three anchoring attempts.  Round Island was about a mile southeast from me.  I headed for the island hoping to anchor on its lee side.  I gave up after two attempts as the island was too small and the current would take NTL into the rocky shoals.  OK lets try Round Island another mile south.  Round Island offered a breakwater pier, it didn’t offer much in protection from the winds but at least the water would be flat!  I gave up after several failed attempts to anchor.  The anchor would not secure to the bottom and thus would not hold!

In the last 1 ½ hrs., I lost 50% of the days progress and was still without a place to rest.  Exhausted and angry, I decided to sail back to De Tour and into a slip.  With the winds blowing over 20 knots and both current and seas on my back,  I was back in my same slip in less than two hours.  Still fuming having made no progress, I still had to admit enjoying sailing at over 7 knots!

I fell asleep thinking come hell or high water I am going to make Sault Saint Marie and sail Lake Superior.

 

Entry #90:  N45.59.865, W83.53.974

Tuesday, July 30th (Day 85):  Last night I sat in my cabin reflecting.  With few exceptions, these past two/three weeks have taken a toll physically and mentally.  I found myself increasingly pushing myself to my limits – both physically and mentally.  Even though I was close to entering my 5th Great Lake (Superior),  I needed to motivate myself to push forward.  Doubt had slowly began to creep up in the back of my mind.

The sources for my lingering doubt that I could accomplish all my goals were twofold _  First, I knew I was running out of time.  Even if I made it in time to start the Trans-Superior race would I have enough time to get back?  Unlikely, as it has taken me 85 days to make a little over 2500 nautical miles.  Circumnavigating Lake Superior alone will likely add close to 1,000 miles and it would be nearing Sept. 1st.  Well past my deadline and I still would need another week to complete the Canadian side!  I kinda knew this when I was on Washington Isle but I was able to convince myself to put my concerns aside and move forward.   Adding to the scenario, if I decided to forgo circumnavigation and just do the Trans-Superior, the finish line was in Duluth – the other end of Lake Superior!

And a second source for my lingering doubt and despair was my physical condition.  In addition to being in constant pain even in the best of sailing conditions, I knew that I no longer had the strength or stamina to handle severe weather conditions like I had encountered on Lakes Erie and Michigan.   And I was about to challenge Lake Superior with the hope that the weather would be moderate for an entire month!    In April in anticipation that I might need an extended time to physically re-coup and prepare NTL prior to taking on Lake Superior, I had reserved a slip at George Kemp Marina in Sault Saint Marie from Monday, July 29th (yesterday) through to Saturday, August 3rd.   Now I will be fortunate to make it by Thursday with no time to re-coup or prepare NTL!

I couldn’t come up with a solution but I wasn’t ready to give up – not yet anyway.  I got up and went for a walk thinking about my state of mind.  I decided that my lack of motivation was the result of me fixating on the negative(s).  So I decided to ignore the reasons against and focus on what I had accomplished to date and what I needed to do to best plan for and prepare for the next leg – Lake Superior.  When I got back to NTL from my walk, I was thinking of my next leg heading for George Kemp Marina.

Entry #89:  N45.59.865, W83.53.976

Monday, July 29th (Day 84):  I awoke to light rain and 10 knot winds coming from the west.  This confirmed last nights forecast for the day.  It was approximately forty-five miles to De Tour and with last nights forecast with the exception of light rain, the 10 knot winds coming from the west would male it a good day sailing.  I should make De Tour by the middle of the afternoon.  So I thought before leaving the slip.  As was my practice, I re-checked the forecast prior to embarking.

The weather forecast originally calling for 10 knot winds from the west with 1to 2 foot following seas for the day was updated.  By mid-day winds coming from the west were now forecast to increase above 35 knots with 3 to 6 foot seas and thunderstorms!  And tomorrows’ forecast would be more of the same.

Again, I’m in battle with the weather conditions.  I’ve already lost nearly 3 weeks and have to forego circumnavigation of both the North Channels and Georgian Bay.  Now my on-time arrival to Superior is becoming a risk!  I have to find a safe route to De Tour.

I began studying the charts and decided to take a closer look at the Marquette Bay where the Village of Hessel was located and the entrance to Les Chaveaux Channel.  Marquette Bay was approximately two hours away and though this route to De Tour was longer, the channel would offer protection from the strong winds and flat water.  That’s not the first time I benefited from local knowledge.  Years ago when I was backpacking on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia in Canada, I was trying to decide which of two campgrounds to spend the night.  An Atlantic storm was forecast and one campground offered good protection however, it was also known to be infested with black flies.  A second campground was exposed offering little protection but was known to be free of black flies.  I shared with an Acadian local my quandary.  His advise was to make camp at the exposed campground as he was a lifetime resident of the area and the national weather forecast was wrong in forecast a storm.  I took his advice and as it turned out, there indeed was no storm.  I was so glad I had taken his advice.

I decided to again follow the advice of the sailor from St. Ignace.  I entered Les Chaveaux Channel just as the winds and seas were becoming quite challenging.   Though the channel was narrow and winding, the cottages and landscape was very peaceful and scenic.  I needed to concentrate as I slowly made my to the end of the canal.  I would need to make the last two hours to De Tour in open waters.  Tired, I decided to anchor in the channel and take a snooze.  30 minutes later I was on my way to De Tour.  It was early evening and both winds and seas were calming when I safely arrived into my slip.  I made 52 miles in a little over 11 miles.  Thank you, Robert Lehman.

Entry #88:  N45.51.975, W84.43.147

Sunday, July 28th (Day 84) – It was a calm and peaceful morning when I got up at 5:45  and got underway for St. Ignace.  It was a good couple of days and I was sad to go but ready to go.  The clock was ticking and the forecast was promising.  The breeze from the south soon filled in to 8 knots and I was moving a solid 4 ½ knots under sail.  I didn’t like my mainsail reefing system so I had reconfigured it during my stay in Beaver Island.  I tried it out when the winds began to pick-up and it worked much better but I still was not fully satisfied.  As I approached the Mackinaw Bridge, I couldn’t believe the number of powerboat traffic.   I seemed to be on their rum line and didn’t appreciate their wakes and inconsideration.

As I passed under the Mackinaw Bridge I celebrated sailing my 4th Great Lake this summer and completing my 3rd Great Lake circumnavigation.  The winds had shifted and as I approached the St. Ignace Municipal Marina they were coming from the west at less than 5 knots.  It turned out to be one of my most enjoyable sailing days of the trip thus far.

I was assigned a Slip #19 and next to me in slip #27 was a Cal 27 sailboat.  I got to talking with the skipper as I had in most ports of call.  He lived in St. Ignace and one might call him a salty dog sailor – having sailed all his life and new the area extremely well.  When he found out that I was heading to De Tour on Drummond Island on my way to Sault Saint Marie he was persistent in suggesting I head to a small town called Hessel and follow the canal east to De Tour rather than in open waters.  He even took out his chart for me to study.  I casually thanked him but had every intention of taking the shortest route to De Tour – open waters.

That evening I took a shower, walked about 5 miles to stretch my back and bought a hamburger for dinner.  I checked out the forecast before retiring and fell asleep visualizing tomorrows route to De Tour.

Day 84 / 44 nautical miles / 2424 total nautical miles.