Entry #101: N45.15.312, W81.39.849
Monday, August 12th & Tuesday, August 13th (Days 98 & 99) – The anchors held and NTL made it through the night of winds and rain without incident. I woke up early in calm waters and under overcast skies to a red sunrise. The forecast was not promising so I hurriedly got ready to get under way. Even though it was only the second week in August, it was cool and I could see my breath. I put on long sleeves, long pants, wool socks and hat. I had been experiencing occasional ignition delays when attempting starting up the engine recently but she started up right away as I got underway. The other anchored sailboat was not far behind and had soon motored passed me by heading south as well. Apparently we both had the same sense of urgency with the coming storms as we lifted anchor before 6 am.
I put up my sails in 5 to 7 knot winds that were coming from the southwest. There was still no internet two hours out and I was unable to get an updated weather forecast. I kept an eye on the growing and menacing clouds north and to the west.
Five hours out the winds continued to steadily build while shifting to the northwest. I became seriously concerned with the development of a thick fog in front of me. And of course, it had begun to rain from the dark clouds coming from the rear. Not good. Tobomory was surrounded with rocky islands and I was only about 10 miles out! Adding to my concerns was the fact that Tobomory was the port for the Chi-Cheemaun Ferry. Without access to the internet or phone service, I had no idea regarding the car ferry’s schedule or its’ route! I took out my fog horn in readiness and continued forward keeping a close eye on my GPS chart plotter display.
About five miles from my destination, I began to see the silhouette of an island to my port. I confirmed its presence on my GPS display. Minutes later, the fog began to lift. Whew! Less than 10 minutes later I was sailing under blue skies and sunshine with Tobermory’ harbour directly in front of me. I hailed the municipal marina for directions as I entered the harbour entrance.
After tying up NTL in her assigned slip, I showered and explored the hopping port town. This was not the remote Tobermory I had visited as a boy. Todays’ Tobermory was packed with tourists speaking French, Japanese, German, Italian. The small harbour was filled with glass bottom tour boats, snorkelling, scuba diving and guided island sightseeing vessels. Boats displaying para sailing, tubing and skiing charters. Kayak and water boarding rentals. And signs giving directions to numerous hiking trails. And of course there was the Chi-Cheemaun Ferry capable of transporting 150 vehicles and their occupants to Manatoulin Island over dinner! All level of activity and tourist atmosphere was quite unexpected and a far cry from my previous ‘far from civilization” stops.
I had a meal at Coconut Joe’s Harbour Bar & Grill then retired for the evening.
My slip was located right in the heart of town and I was awakened several times before things finally quieted down around midnight. The next morning I got up to 30+ knot winds from the northeast with rain and possible storms forecast for the late afternoon and evening. Not unlike the US Alpena side of Lake Huron, the shoreline was inundated with shoals and rocks. Port Elgin was the closest safe harbour and it was 55 miles away. I had no intention of sailing in storms.
I decided to wait for better weather and stay another day. The next morning I splurged and enjoyed an omelette breakfast with toast and coffee. The rest of the day I spent relaxing, talking with several sailors and purchasing gifts for my grandchildren. Wednesdays’ weather forecast was much more promising. With assistance, I was able to extract myself NTL from her slip and re-located further away from the towns’ centre. That night was much quieter and I had a good nights’ sleep.
I enjoyed my two days in Tobermory. It felt more like a mini-vacation instead of a sailing journey. It was a welcome change. And now, I’m homeward bound. I need to be careful and hold back my excitement as my journey is not complete and there remains the unknown and challenges to meet.
Never Too Late For 